Last Days.

Coast road just Sth of Sydney

Royal National Park, Sth. Sydney

Nice place for a picnic - no crocs here!

Handsome little chap isn't he?

I caught sight of myself in the mirror this morning. Not a good look at all - grey stubble, bleary, squinty little eyes, blotchy sunburnt complexion. Been too long on the road, time to head back to civilisation before I deteriorate totally!

So, resolved to clean myself up I approach the shower block (tentatively – you never know what you might find in these places) and discover it’s one of those that you have to feed the meter to get hot water. Well, okay I suppose, though most are free. I go back for money and insert a $2 coin in the slot for my 3 minutes. Unfortunately it takes me 2 minutes to extricate myself from my bike boots, pants, thermals etc, etc. Naturally I tangle my leggings around the in-built armour in the pants, so I’m hopping round on one leg hurrying desperately to get out of my clobber before the water runs out. Oh no! I realise I’ve forgotten my towel! I do this all the time, I’m such a clot sometimes. So quickly now back into leggings and grab towel from tent. The metre’s still running so it is with relief I get under the hot water and get all lathered up. I’m wallowing in the  indulgent luxury of the hot shower when suddenly, abruptly and without warning the water cuts out. I didn’t bring any more coins so have to abort the cleaning mission and rinse off in cold water. My happy, easy-going  disposition  has definitely gone by this time I can tell you!

Today I take the Grand Pacific Drive north from Bulli and through the Royal National Park. I’m in for a treat. The road is almost empty of traffic and winds through rainforest, woodland,  and heathland on the tops, with an ever-present view of beautiful beaches and cliffs dropping off into deep, blue water. I stop for a photo opportunity by a river with amazing coloured cliffs above, and have a conversation with Manika, who’s taking a walk through the forest. She and her husband run a busy restaurant in Cronulla and are having a holiday soon in Cairns. They dream of buying a bus and travelling the whole country. Just do it, join the nomad movement! There’s lots of casual work to be found if you need the money, and the lifestyle is just grand. All the nomads I met were really happy, contented and relaxed with all the simple things you need for a life of travel. I recommend it highly. Don’t wait, life’s short, it’s a big country. Start immediately! (if not sooner)

I don’t want to leave this lovely spot. I know soon I’ll be out in the chaotic rush of Sydney traffic. Day and night there’s four lanes of traffic, always in a hurry to get somewhere else. Impatient, aggressive traffic. Like any big city anywhere really. I have mixed emotions at finishing my journey. Part of me wants to just do another lap because there’s so much I haven’t seen skirting around the perimeter of Australia. And the more forceful part says it’s time to go home, to which emotion I willingly acquiesce. A return to work and my loved ones beckon.

I share the last of my cashews and macadamias with some friendly cockatoos that alight on my picnic table. They are friendly and good, amusing company (like so many Aussies I’ve met) but the moment is shattered by a magpie which approaches with a raucous “CAARK!” and frightens off my new friends.

I pull my riding jacket on wearily for the last time, say goodbye to the forest, the river and the music of the birds and point Bluey towards Sutherland, Sydney and the roads end.

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